Do I Really Need This?
by alpha climbing mentor Aaron Hjelt, updated February 8, 2024
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Although this blog post is more of an “open letter” directed to parents and athletes of alpha climbing programs, it could be useful for athletes of other rock-based programs, or those attempting to properly kit their interest in pursuing a performance sport climbing or bouldering agenda. The information presented pertains primarily to single-pitch sport climbing and bouldering outside, though some of it may apply to gym climbing or other climbing disciplines.
As summer draws near, you (athletes or parents) might be growing anxious with the preparatory needs for your alpha climbing trip or camp. You’ve received the packing list and given it a good glance. Two common questions may come up:
“What is this?” and,
“Do I really need this?”
Since the gear-specific needs to climb rocks are incredibly minimal, being presented with an extended list of unknowns (many of which have not been needed before) is likely to elicit these questions. It’s quite possible that you’ve climbed for years without owning or using them; or knowing what any or all of these items are.
One of the purest aspects of climbing is that it is an activity that requires no equipment. Unlike sports such as skiing (which requires skis), biking (which requires a bike), or horse-riding (which requires a horse), one can climb rocks without any additional equipment. However, in the discipline of sport climbing and bouldering, it is acceptable and encouraged to use specialized equipment to minimize the risk of injury and accident and increase performance. A fully developed kit also allows us to better help our partners and other users. The “basic” kit needed to participate in the modern versions of sport climbing and bouldering generally looks like this:
Sport Climbing
climbing shoes
harness
chalk bag w/ chalk
belay device with carabiner
quickdraws
rope
Bouldering
climbing shoes
bouldering pad(s)
chalk
These are the items that would be considered a minimum for participation. Of course, everyday needs must be met, such as food, water, clothing, and transportation. And to reiterate, none of this is actually needed to climb rock, other than whatever is needed to get to the rock in the first place.
Through the mentorship provided by our programs, we attempt to educate and inspire our athletes with the skill and knowledge to improve their performance, satisfaction, and longevity. Safety and sustainability are our core values. The equipment we use to support these values, along with the skill needed to use equipment, are critical components of our mission of empowerment. Therefore, when we establish a packing list with unknown and never-before-needed items, we ask you to consider this request seriously. Not only are you signing up for a performance rock climbing trip or camp, but you are also signing up for the mentorship that is the foundation of our mission. We’re not only taking you rock climbing - we are empowering you with the tools needed to climb better, safer, happier, longer, and with less impact. And to be a better partner.
Equipment needs for sport climbing and bouldering fall into a number of categories. An item’s use might not be exclusive to a single category.
Safety - items that help reduce risk; exposure to error or oversight; eliminate or minimize impact; or allow for repeated attempts in the face of any of the above.
Convenience - items that reduce burden, workload, or tedium.
Efficiency - items that make tasks easier or require less energy.
Repair and Maintenance - items that fix, fuel, and sustain.
Performance - items that improve output, reduce effort, and promote potential.
Emergencies - items that aid or assist in tactics during emergency situations.
alpha climbing mentors simply cannot provide all of the auxiliary items that might be needed for the support of these categories. Especially on international trips - it’s just not feasible. We cannot fulfill our mission of empowerment if our athletes don’t arrive prepared.
This is not a comprehensive list. It is based primarily on our current mentorship strategies and is subject to change as our practice improves and/or responds to industry updates. It is presented in alphabetical order with no emphasis on priority. Recommendations (as appropriate) are linked for each section. These are subject to change.
alpha climbing discourages the purchase of Black Diamond Equipment. Under the leadership of Executive Chairman Warren Kanders, the company seems to be more focused on delivering profit for its shareholders than providing for its customers. In most cases, we feel that there are choices available that are superior in performance while better aligning with our values. It is perfectly acceptable for athletes to arrive with Black Diamond Equipment products so long as they meet the specific requirements set forth. Please contact us for more information on this decision.
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45 liters should be considered the minimum volume backpack for full-day climbing sessions in all but the warmest summer months. The pack bag itself must contain all equipment on the approach to the crag, including all personal equipment, shared group equipment, food, clothing, water, electronics, helmet, and preferably, the rope. For average size teens, this simply isn’t possible with a smaller backpack. A smaller backpack may limit the athlete’s ability to share the burden of carrying group gear. Clipping equipment to the outside of the backpack is not desirable since it creates a snagging hazard. This also presents the characteristics of beginner or “guided” climbers, which might put other users on edge (rightfully so, since in the case of an accident, they will be involved with assistance due to immediate association).
Being forced to carry equipment in the hands is a safety concern and creates a tripping hazard.
A backpack that is too small makes transitioning to various sectors more cumbersome, requiring more time to pack the contents. Furthermore, a small backpack does a poor job containing personal items while at the crag, often presenting the “yard sale” effect. A larger pack helps its user organize effectively and keep their belongings ready and available. It will also tend to carry the weight better, distributing the load on the hips and across the spine.
Sport climbing specific backpacks have improved over the years. There are quite a few in the 35-45l capacity, although the former will absolutely require the rope to be carried outside the pack. For those climbers with a 20+ minute approach, or in mountainous terrain, the rope really needs to be in the pack. With this in mind, 45l is an absolute minimum. What is really needed for these situations, is a 50l+ pack capacity or an overnight “top-loading” pack - something that you would use for backpacking. A day-hiking backpack simply isn’t intended for bulky climbing gear.
Finally, cragging-specifc backpacks are usually made with burlier fabric that will withstand repeated dragging, rolling, flying, stuffing, and the other various forms of abuse this piece of equipment demands.
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These are specialized trail shoes that are built around a climbing shoe rubber sole. They may be more rigid and “boot-like,” or more flexible and “running-shoe-like.” Regardless, they are intended to provide improve grip and security to climbers approaching crags, boulders, and alpine environments on trails that are often barely recognizable as trails. The unique friction and tread of the soles provides enhanced grip on all surfaces.
Since the approach is often the most dangerous part of the day - we’re not tied on and are on our own to remain safe - this special piece of equipment is often overlooked. Trails to crags often come with high risk and exposure. There have been notable accidents and even death on approaches.
In recent years, I have come to accept skate shoes as being an “okay” substitute. Traditional hiking boots are not appropriate because they don’t allow for enough dexterity or articulation. They actually tend to increase ankle rolls, in my opinion. Trail runners are okay, but the friction of the soles tends to be less than desirable, especially in technical environments. Quite often, it is the user who determines the outcome - learning to be adept, nimble, and secure on a loose and steep trail does come with skill. But specific tools do help. A good approach shoe is part of a risk management strategy and can help reduce injury and possibly, catastrophe, on the approach and while at the crag. Another aspect that might not be considered is how an approach shoe can aid in the belay - providing a helpful belay to your partner requires good footing. When the climber takes a big fall, getting back to the highpoint demands the strength of the belayer to assist. This frequently requires the belayer to “walk” up the rock to act as a counter balance for the climber, who is climbing up the rope.
Finally, it should be said that open-toed shoes are not appropriate for the approach or belay. It’s just too easy to rip off a toenail, or some other foot injury. Sandals provide limited grip for the belayer to assist the climber as mentioned.
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The use of an auto locking carabiner for the Grigri-to-harness attachment all but completely eliminates the risk of having the carabiner become stuck on the harness. Screw gate carabiners are notorious for becoming seized - when the screw component gets overtightened or has too much friction to release. While this isn’t necessarily a dangerous situation, it can be a major inconvenience. On the flip-side, screw gates that have smooth action must be repeatedly checked to ensure that they are closed. This is not ideal during a lead belay. Auto lock carabiners cost a few dollars more but the provided piece-of-mind is totally worth it. It is not necessary for this carabiner to be of the larger variety. The smaller sizes tend to be preferred since they hold the Grigri closer to the body.
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When they first arrived en masse to the crags of Europe over a decade ago, these goofy spectacles seemed like a bit of a gimmick, but they have become commonplace at both crag and gym. Effectively allowing more ease in keeping a watchful eye on the climber, they help prevent neck strain for the belayer. And while the belayer should be competent to perform their task without maintaining a constant gaze on their climber, belay glasses do help increase the awareness. I have noticed with youth though, that the constant attention to what is in the lens on their face, creates a distraction to what is going on with their rope management - I’ve frequently seen teens lead belaying (using belay glasses) with no apparent idea that 10’ of slack (or more) was piled up at their feet. There is a learning curve with using belay glasses. In most situations, I feel that it is better for teens to belay without glasses, unless there is a known spinal condition that warrants their use.
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Adolescents are uniquely adept at not getting cold. This doesn’t mean they aren’t burning calories - calories that might be needed for muscle repair and other important functions. Improving at athletics isn’t just getting stronger, it is often about learning to be more efficient and make fewer mistakes. Climbing in ideal conditions may involve standing beneath shady walls for hours at a time. Even in the summer, temps could be below 60f/15c. Although we are moving around and may feel warm, keeping heat in is profoundly important to recovery. When it’s cold our core temp may rise due to blood staying centered in our trunk, but we need it in our hands and feet when we climb. Putting a jacket on immediately after we climb helps maintain circulation and helps promote recovery. I always recommend one with a hood, since it helps keep the wind out. A small stuff sack can help keep the jacket from getting snagged on the rest of the contents of the backpack during transport.
Don’t forget a knit cap or beanie.
Lately, the trend of wearing “puffy” pants over the climbing pants during rest and belaying has caught on. This may be a bit extreme for most of us, but for those who want to make the best of all conditions, it’s certainly worth the effort.
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The practice of brushing the rock from chalk and dirt is one of both etiquette and performance. Chalk on holds tends to cake up from repeated use, forming a waxy, pasty texture that is full of dirt and shoe rubber. For both their own performance and the preservation of the rock, it is imperative that climbers brush this gunk off. Lately, we’ve used natural bristle brushes to accomplish this, since it is known that plastic bristle brushes polish the rock. In most cases, however, this result hardly holds a candle to how our use polishes the rock, so I don’t have a strong opinion on it. It is difficult to make a durable natural bristle brush small enough to fit in small pockets, so in this case an old toothbrush is ideal (cleaned thoroughly first, of course). A selection of brushes in various sizes is a worthy addition.
Additionally, the practice of brushing tick-marks (sometimes spelled “tic-marks”) should be the habit of every climber. Ticks are the dots or stripes we use to de-mark a specific location for hand or foot. They are meant to be temporary. An unsightly proliferation of this practice in the past 5 years has led to many popular climbing zones looking like a tic-tac-toe board. As climbers, we must decide whether or not we will treat our climbing crags like gyms, or if we will try to preserve their natural appearance. I will take the side of the latter, along with public land managers, land owners, and other users who would prefer a more natural state.
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Boinking is the act of pulling up the rope after becoming stranded in mid-air after a long lead fall. On steep routes, it may be impossible to grab onto the rock or descending rope, and thus, the tactic known as boinking is used to return to the high point. It is achieved where the climber does a pull-up on the rope in front of their face, lets it go quickly, and the weight of the belayer pulls in this slack. This may be accomplished without any additional equipment. However, with the thin ropes used for long cave routes to minimize weight and rope drag, getting a grip (for both climber and belayer) can become quite exhausting. And it’s hard on the hand skin. A climber may fall 30’ into space, and if it is a requirement that they get to the top, then this is really the only way.
The boink kit aids in this process, and can contain items for both the climber and the belayer. For the climber, a short piece of cord tied in a loop with a double fisher knot (also called a prusik cord) can be attached to the back loop of the harness with a small carabiner. It is wrapped around the rope above the head with the appropriate knot, then used as a handle to assist the pull up. These cords may be 5 or 6mm. They may be purchased in a sewn loop ready-to-use such as this one from Beal. Or, use a 2’ length of cord. Since it’s not structural it’s okay for it to be on the narrower side. It’s more important that it’s light and not bulky.
For the belayer, getting a good grip on the rope during the boink process is incredibly helpful in assisting the belayer. For cave climbing, we will often see experienced belayers with a left-handed mechanical ascender clipped to their harness during the belay. After a big fall, the belayer will affix the ascender to the rope. This increased grip provides ease in “walking” up the rope to act as a counter balance, aiding the climber in removing the boink slack from the line. Since the belayer’s role is critical in the process, this technique can save a lot of energy for both the belayer and climber. On the belay side, it is possible to use a cord loop similar to the climber, although the mechanical device works best.
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A bouldering bucket keeps a large stash of chalk, brushes, accessories, and seals tightly. It sits upright and prevents spills, and allows the climber to rub their hands together inside the bag. In bouldering settings, it is superior to a waist-worn chalk bag, although it may not replace the waist-worn bag completely. Both should be used as necessary. The iconic Lunch Bag Chalk Bucket from Organic is synonymous with this item and is made from scraps from their bouldering pads.
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A chalk bag should be worn on a belt and not clipped to the harness. This could be considered a “style” choice, but I find it to be a matter of ergonomics. A bag clipped on usually sits too low. It will often be flipped around. It is limited in how it can move. Finally, it cannot be removed easily. For long periods of rest, belaying, etc., many climbers remove their chalk bag. This keep it from spilling and “poofing.”
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Maintaining a clean rope prolongs the life of permanent crag hardware and personal hardware. And, it’s just nicer. A dirty rope gets hands and clothes dirty. It acts as a sandpaper, sliding across the aluminum and coating everything that comes into contact with it with a black filth. Washing a rope does not shorten it’s life considerably. By some opinions, it may prolong a rope’s life by preventing dirt from abrading sheath and core fibers. Most importantly, it prolongs the life of “permanent” anchor hardware, which is most-often being replaced by community volunteers who would rather be climbing or developing new routes.
A rope may be cleaned in a top-load or front-load washer so long as it doesn’t have a center agitator. Mild detergent (no bleach) is totally fine. Daisy-chaining the rope will prevent it from becoming a kinked mess in the washer. Air dry on the floor or hang on a line.
There isn’t a set period for washing. I will wash a rope 2-3 times on average over its useful life. For dirty, sandy areas, more washing may be required.
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Most climbers have one main pair of shoes that they use for everything. For those venturing outside frequently, it is common to have a quiver of shoes for different rock types, intensity, volume, or comfort. The fit and condition of the climbing shoe can make or break an extended climbing trip.
On alpha climbing trips and camps, we repeatedly see athletes arrive with ill-fitting shoes that offer very little advantage on the incredibly small rock features. These shoes make suffice for climbing gym training, but they offer minimal support while attempting to use natural rock. It’s become commonplace that we loan a pair of tighter fitting, performance shoes to these athletes and see their ability instantly jump up a grade.
On some days, especially when it is hot or after a long approach, the tight shoes we’ve become used to in the gym don’t seem to fit. Our feet might swell up to a half size.
A good solution is to have two pairs of shoes, one the normal gym size and one a half size larger or smaller (depending how the normal shoes fit). As a whole, we find that our athletes who are relatively new to outdoor climbing have shoes that are too big or too “floppy.” These tend to be the entry-level shoes that are marketed to gym climbers.
It is critical to confirm the fit with a coach or a trusted expert who can assess how the foot fills the shoe. Finding the right fit can be a process of trial and error.
An additional shoe for comfort might also be useful. A flatter, broader shoe can give relief if the feet are exhausted from being constricted.
Finally, packing a terry cloth towel (such as a cut off piece of an old hand towel) is a good idea for cleaning the shoes between climbs. Any dirt or oil whatsoever on the shoe will reduce friction, as well as polish the rock prematurely. It is both from etiquette and performance that we should keep our shoes clean.
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The Grigri assisted-braking belay device, made by Petzl, has been a mainstay at both crag and gym (as well as big walls and alpine environments since its introduction in 1991. It is the only belay device allowed for use in all alpha climbing programs. There are other suitable belay devices available but since the Grigri is the most widely used belay device on the market, we feel strongly that consistency is the deciding factor. We won’t make an anecdotal claim that the Grigri is the best, but it’s universality makes it a prudent choice. Continued improvement over the years has led to a highly refined user experience, especially with the narrower ropes (<9.5mm) that have become more prevalent. We feel strongly that every climber who is building their outdoor kit should invest in a Grigri (with an auto locking carabiner as previously mentioned). At the current retail price of $110, it costs less than a pair of shoes and will easily last 10 years (or more if you keep your rope clean and don’t lose it). The Grigri + has a steel wear plate and a “anti-panic handle” which helps prevent accidental speed lowering. It is a bit bulkier and heavier. We don’t recommend this model unless you climb in dusty environments which make it hard to keep ropes clean.
There are still arguments proclaiming the importance of learning to belay with a traditional friction-based belay device, such as a Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso. To this I say, “Hogwash!” Since it is possible to use the Grigri with a “universal” belay technique, there is no reason to not learn this technique using a Grigri. As a caveat, some ropes work better in this situation, particularly Petzl’s ropes.
The invention and development of the assisted braking belay device has been one of the most important components in the development of sport climbing. With it, we can try more, fail more, learn more. We use less energy. We focus on the climb. We build trust in our partner, and therefore ourselves.
As a final mention in this topic, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention a troubling trend in belaying that I’ve seen quite a bit at both gym and crag. The practice of continually holding and pinching the Grigri with the right hand, whilst the left hand bounces about moving the rope around, has become more commonplace. This is unacceptable and needs to be nipped in the bud. I’ve even seen belayers frequently completely let go of the right hand whilst pulling in slack, while continually squeezing the upward end (the rope exiting the Grigri and leading to the climber) with the left hand. A fall in this instance would most likely put the climber on the ground. The ONLY way to safely use the Grigri is according to Petzl’s specific instruction. Please study it and ensure your use is correct. And check your friends. Don’t be afraid to mentor someone on the correct use. You may prevent a catastrophe.
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Simply put, gloves protect the hands. Needless to say, the hands are incredibly important in climbing. There are a few key reasons why we require gloves for belaying. Firstly, ropes get dirty. A dirty rope abrades the aluminum hardware used during a climb. This creates dust that impregnates the rope’s sheath. This, in turn, gets on hands, clothes, faces, etc. We won’t make any claims on health risks from this, but it’s just dirty. I, for one, don’t want to eat my PB&J at the crag with my aluminum dirt hands. It gets everywhere. Since we can’t keep our ropes perfectly clean, gloves keep this gunk off our skin.
The next issue is skin. Working long projects, especially caves with big fall potential, requires a lot of activity from the belayer (see the boink kit section). A tremendous amount of pulling on the rope is required. Ropes wear on skin, and we need skin to climb. Wearing gloves while belaying helps keep the inside of the hand from getting worn prematurely.
Finally, in rare cases, a belayer can be pulled into the wall during a fall. Despite trying to absorb the force with feet or lower body, the hands often make violent contact with the rock. Gloves will help protect them.
Belay gloves needn’t be specifically sold as such. A lightweight leather work glove that fits well and molds to the hand is ideal. There are even many suitable synthetic options. However, it must fit well. A glove that isn’t broken in will feel slippery, but this will improve over time.
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Assembling a guidebook is a tremendous effort. It is often done by local route developers out of necessity and almost always from pure passion.
Proceeds from area guidebooks often support local bolting and anchor replacement efforts. Purchasing these books will most likely support local efforts.
Sharing one book between more than 3 or 4 climbers can be problematic, so it’s encouraged for alpha climbing athletes to purchase the local guidebook for the area that their program will visit. Guidebooks may be purchased locally or ordered from our favorite suppliers listed below.
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Even though a harness was initially listed as a minimum entry requirement, there are some important considerations in choosing one that may effect safety and performance. Beginning in 2024, alpha climbing will require all athletes who have begun puberty to use a fixed leg loop adult harness (so long as proper sizing is available) if they wish to lead. The encouragement or requirement for a fixed leg loop harness comes from a few reasons. Primarily, it’s safety. Time and time again, especially with youth, we see that adjustable leg loops, with their lack of elastic, actually become “fixed.” In other words, there is never any attempt to adjust or tighten, thereby becoming a static loop. Thighs tend to get wider as they get closer to the groin area. The static loop, coupled with clothing and gravity, falls down. This can also tend to bring the waist belt down. The effect is that the center of balance is lowered. More body mass is now above the tie-in point. This can increase the chance of an upside down or spinning fall. To put it simply, this is terrifying. I’ve personally witnessed it a number of times. A harness that sits fully in the crotch and in the small of the waist has more chance of preventing this. Elastic leg loops allow the harness to be tightened — and stay tightened — in the ideal spot for safety.
Furthermore, the fixed leg loop harnesses are less bulky, lighter, pack easier, and tend to have less interference with racking quickdraws for leading.
However, none of this matters if the harness is too big. Parents, please, DO NOT allow your child to climb in a harness that is loose and sloppy. Harnesses are cheap compared to a concussion. All it takes is one traumatic occurrence to debilitate performance potential. If the harness is tightened all the way and there is slop, it is absolutely too big.
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No, your phone light doesn’t count. Every climber needs a headlamp. Whether it's walking out after sunset, cooking late at camp, changing a flat tire, reading in the dark, or trying one more time when you can’t see the footholds, it is a tool that humans have wished we’ve had since we started going into caves. A compact, rechargeable, LED headlamp will last for years (especially if it’s not made by Black Diamond), and will add hours of productivity to your life.
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Climbing isn’t to the point where helmets are mandatory equipment. They still haven’t become ubiquitous, despite incredible improvements in the past 10 years. Most elite sport climbers don’t wear them (almost none, to be specific), and they aren’t required in competition. The “industry-standard” of not using them remains. We require all participants under 16 to wear them at all times while within 50’ of the rock during our sport climbing programs. At 16 and up, we offer the option to do so but may require use in specific circumstances.
Helmets offer protection for two situations: rockfall (or other things that fall) and collision impact.
Rockfall at climbing crags is perhaps one of the most dangerous and consequential elements of rock climbing. However, getting hit by a falling rock is akin to being struck by lightning. It is somewhat predictable and highly preventable. Mostly, staying out of a rockfall zone will prevent being struck by a falling rock. Furthermore, wearing a helmet while being struck by a rock doesn’t guarantee safety. In no situation would I want to be struck by a falling rock, helmet or not. There are a few specific areas of a sport climbing area where rock fall could be predicted, notably, the radius of ground under the climber. Secondly, the outside of the shadow cast by the face of the rock. Avoiding these areas seems obvious, but climbers get complacent when bad things don’t happen. In our role as mentors, we are maintaining and instructing content vigilance to these concerns. We are frequently informing others at the crag about these risks. And as much as I’ll sound like a broken record I’ll reiterate, you will not get hurt by rock fall if you avoid rock fall. So avoiding rockfall should be one of any climber’s primary risk management strategies.
Collision impact is a more nuanced topic. Generally speaking, it is a minimal risk in single-pitch performance sport climbing. Again, I’ll point to competition and advanced to elite use: hitting one’s head on the rock during a fall is incredibly rare. After 30 years of climbing, I, nor anyone in my close group of friends, have had a lead fall in a sport climb scenario in which a helmet would have offered any protection. Is this luck? Or is it the physical reality of what we are doing. Due to sheer statistics, probably more of the latter.
With adolescents, there are a few things to note on why helmet wear should have more consideration. For starters, as adults, we are responsible for their well-being and safety. Knowing that there is a danger, it’s our onus to provide risk mitigation when we know their judgment hasn’t developed (as well as ours, for what it’s worth). Secondly, through puberty, bodies change in ways that the brain isn’t totally keeping up with. This isn’t only clumsiness, but real differences in where our center-of-gravity sits. As teens, we might not have figured out how we fall, where we fall, or when we’ll fall. And we need to account for this with protection when appropriate.
In some situations, a helmet could increase risk, by getting snagged or tangled during a fall, although this too, is incredibly rare.
By all means, I am not arguing that helmets aren’t useful or shouldn’t be worn. What I am attempting to explain is why helmet use has yet to become an industry standard, and why I am not advocating for any changes to this paradigm (currently).
With all this being said, I do recommend buying a new, lightweight helmet, the kind that you barely notice when you’re wearing. Spend $50 more than the basic model and get an incredibly lightweight model that fits well. I’ve been using the Petzl Scirocco (currently $115) for nearly 10 years. When I wear it, it stays on my head at the crag all day, and I often forget I have it on. When I’m climbing, I rarely recall that I have it on. So why not wear it? It’s a 6 ounce investment in my well being.
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The “keylock” is a design feature of the carabiner that creates a smooth surface on the nose of the closure system, in lieu of a notch where the gate sits. See here for a visual explanation. In most sport climbing situations, keylocks are preferred, because they prevent snagging. The route-cleaning methods we teach our athletes rely on the snagless design of keylock carabiners. It’s an exercise in frustration and drama to watch a teenager struggle with a notched carabiner while attempting to clean a steep route as the sun is setting. Most sport climbing quickdraws available feature keylock carabiners at one or both ends, but we feel strongly that having keylocks on both ends is advantageous. In cost comparison, it’s really apples to apples. There are some great quickdraws available for around $15. We feel that it is worth it to spend an extra $5 per quickdraw to get the performance models, which also tend to last longer.
In addition, please read the section on why we require nylon quickdraw “dogbones” and don’t allow those made of Dyneema or other similar fibers. Polyester may suffice but has less impact absorption.
Good
CAMP USA Orbit Express KS quickdraw
Better
Best
Petzl Spirit Express quickdraw
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A kneebar pad is a fabric sleeve with a piece of climbing shoe rubber affixed that is worn on the thigh and sits at the top of the kneecap. It is useful in maintaining a grip with the leg on rock features that offer a “kneebar” specific rest or “scum.” Not all of the climbing crags we visit will offer these types of features or moves. Inevitably, most climbers will visit a crag at which a kneebar is an advantageous move - one that will increase efficiency, power, stamina, and/or performance in general. Oftentimes, the specific part of the rock where the thigh connects with will be sharp or rough. The pad helps prevent pain while adding friction. Specific rest or clipping positions may be gained from wearing a pad.
Simply put, we do not allow our athletes to attempt kneebar specific routes without wearing a pad (or two) in some cases. It’s just not worth it. When it’s hot, and shorts are more comfortable, wearing a kneebar pad can prevent the exposed thigh from becoming a bloody mess. It allows for repeated attempts. In these specific areas or climbs, it becomes akin to wearing shoes. And in many case, it’s not avoidable - you simply won’t get up the route without learning to use this technique. And if you do, you will be taking an excessive amount of time from your belayer, and potentially preventing others from climbing the route.
In a group situation, having one pad per person allows sharing, in the case that two are needed on a route.
Every climber (sport climbing and bouldering) who travels and intends to climb at roughly 7a (5.11d) sport and/or 7a (V6) boulders, should have at least one kneebar pad, in my opinion. They are between $40 and $100 and should be considered standard kit for those who climb on a variety of rock types.
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Item This could be as basic as a generic snap-lid plastic container, or something more
sophisticated. What’s important is that it has the capacity to hold real food for the day at the crag. Our mentorship in eating encourages our athletes to resist the urge to survive on bars and other processed foods, and to develop habits in fueling with real food. Performance is largely affected by what we eat, when we eat, and how we eat it. We need to eat during the day. Despite our adrenal systems telling us we’re not hungry, not eating is a contributing factor in diminished performance, recovery, and well-being. Bars and snacks might fill us, but the processed condition of each usually means more sugar and less nutrition. We’ve evolved eating real food that we learned to grow, harvest, prepare, and frequently overlooked, enjoy. Something in a disposable wrapper may be convenient, but we think the term “meal-replacement” is an oxymoron. We should not replace our meals with processed substitutes. As mentors, modeling eating and food prep skills are paramount supporting athletic development and potential.
A good lunch container can safely hold leftovers, wraps, tacos, sandwiches, pasta, hummus, veggies, fruit slices, sardines, etc.
What’s more important is that we make time at the crag to stop to sit and eat. We all need to support each other with this.
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Thick (or wide, depending how you look at it) is the preferred choice for a sport climbing quickdraw. With the exception of limit level on-sighting, there’s no reason to use skinny “alpine-style” draws for sport climbing. Nylon absorbs more force and is easier to grab if needed. The fatter surface cradles the carabiner more securely, eases clipping, and prevents carabiners from spinning. It should be noted that the industry standard replacement period for nylon is 5 years. This specifically refers to guiding situations where liability or negligence is a concern; and the equipment may see repeated use in a professional environment. My opinion is that 10 years for most climbers should be the acceptable length of use if the quickdraws are not being left in the sun for days on end. Throw the old nylon away and buy new dogbones for $5-10 each.
A nylon dogbone/aluminum carabiner quickdraw is not intended for extended or permanent use outdoors. UV radiation from the sun degrades nylon. Ropes wear aluminum. Quickdraws that are left on routes for months or years will eventually break or sever a rope. We must cease the act of leaving our non-permanent equipment on routes for the sake of convenience.
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I don’t care how many instagram photos of pro climber’s shredded bloody hands have inspired you to try harder, I will not allow you to knowingly bleed on the rock during an alpha climbing program. It’s simply unacceptable.
Rock is usually sharp and rough. The experience of climbing on it, especially for those who primarily climb in gyms, usually comes with a fair amount of blood letting. Skin is incredibly sensitive. As an organ, it responds and (hopefully) adapts to stress. Unfortunately, this isn’t an overnight occurrence. On extended climbing trips, our hands take a beating. When we are less experienced our movement is less refined, usually resulting in more scrapes, ripped cuticles, and “flappers.” We must come prepared to contain the blood.
A skin kit should contain specific remedies for this. For many climbers, it’s simply a role of tape. For specific problems, such as a hole in the finger or a severe flapper, there’s a bit more that can help. As follows is a full list of skin kit items (presented in order of importance):
cotton athletic tape - the old standard. The adhesive does dry out, so if the roll is old it may not work as well.
assortment of flexible bandages - various shapes and sizes for cuts and scrapes.
small trauma pads - to absorb blood.
super glue - used to patch holes in the skin.
tissues - for wiping up blood.
safety pins of various sizes - for poking blood blisters or extracting splinters.
nail clippers - for nails and trimming away dead skin.
sanding block - for sanding down rough skin and callouses susceptible to snagging or ripping.
cuticle scissors - for close trimming of flappers.
emory board - for smoothing rough skin or nails.
small spray bottle of isopropyl alcohol - for cleaning skin prior to tape application. Also helpful in sanitizing around wounds and cleaning the soles of climbing shoes. 20 ml or so is ideal. Disposable wipes are good as well.
tincture of benzoin - natural ointment that helps tape stick better.
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A stick clip (or clip stick as the British call it), is an extendable pole with an attachment that cradles and holds a quickdraw in order to install it, with a rope clipped in, to the lowest hardware points on a sport climb, intending to prevent a fall to the ground within the first part of the climb. It can also be used to get through difficult sections on a route, or to retrieve quickdraws. It is an indispensable tool for both risk mitigation and performance. All sport climbers should have a stick clip and be competent in its use. There’s no valid reason to risk a ground fall in a sport climbing scenario.
Stick clips can be made from actual sticks, assembled from purchased components, or purchased as an integrated device. An extendable painting or cleaning pole will accept a Superclip or Trango Squid attachment, both of which can un-clip a carabiner from an anchor point.
The painter pole configuration doesn’t work well for travelling. A few proprietary stick clips are available for purchase from about $60 and up, including the Kailas Clip-up, the Mountain Drifter Skyhook, and the Betastick Evo. These all work well but do come with durability issues.
Another option is to make a collapsible stick from an avalanche probe, a Superclip, and epoxy. This can be done for $50-80 and will generally last for years of climbing (although the cable inside the avalanche probe is susceptible to wear). For travel it is a great option. See how to make it here.
In groups of 4 or more, there must be more than one stick clip. If this isn’t the case, it’s likely that there will be much down time from the extra effort needed to share the stick. Inevitably, a climber will be ready to begin, realizing they haven’t pre-clipped, and will be forced with the decision to deal with it (or not). This inefficiency eats away at precious crag time, as well as putting both our athletes and staff in safety compromised situations. In an ideal setting, there will be 1 stick per two climbers.
By the way, a tent pole won’t work.
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Used to brush holds and tick marks from boulders, a stick brush will get to most cruxy holds on all but the tallest boulders. It really only needs to be a collapsable pole that remains rigid as it is extended. The brush can be zip-tied or attached with screw-type hose clamps. The importance is the rigidity. This tool is now being made ready to use like this one from Mammut. For travel, it must fit in the checked baggage, so the pole must be able to collapse to about 30”.
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It is common that the best conditions for hard boulders will be after the sun sets. For Rocklands trips, the sun sets relatively early (since it is winter there), and having adequate light to remain at the boulders is imperative. Headlamps are a must in these situations, but additionally, a spotlight is helpful in casting enough illumination. Lightweight, rechargeable LED work lights are great for this purpose. Look for something that is 750-1500 lumens like this one.
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A basic rope bag contains an integrated tarp to keep the rope out of the dirt, and tie-in points to keep the ends from tangling into knots. The tarp wraps up with the rope for transport and storage, and keeps the rope ready for the next use. The benefits of this simple device are numerous. From a safety standpoint, having a point to which the end is tied in, gives us peace of mind in knowing we cannot lower our partner off the end of the rope. Using the top tie-in point eliminates the potential for the rope to tie itself in a knot (yes, this happens more often than you could imagine). Keeping the rope out of the dirt obviously keeps the rope cleaner. In turn, it prevents unnecessary wear on hardware - especially permanent hardware which is most likely being replaced by volunteers. A properly used rope bag will save climbers time by keeping the rope ready to use. It will free up more time for others at the crag. It also provides a way to transport the rope when the backpack is too small.
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We use time as a contract with each other to be accountable, create deadlines, and maintain productivity. The accountability aspect is a key component of becoming an adult. We hold our athletes responsible with the management of time. We need our athletes to keep track of the time they use to sleep, eat, are on the rock, getting ready, etc. This is a fundamental component of what it means to be an athlete, since it refers to our ability to make and keep a plan. When travelling, our respect of time becomes even more critical, when deadlines can dramatically affect group opportunity. Consideration of time reflects our ability to empathize, since we can get outside of our own specific needs, thereby considering others. We rhetorically answer the frequent question, “What time is it?” with the answer, “Look at your watch.” Enabling teens to not be accountable for time management, leads to adults who aren’t responsible for time management. Of course, our phones will show us what time it is, but we need to learn to look.
From a purely athletic perspective, time management helps us understand specific needs for rest and recovery, as well as route-specific performance.
Final thoughts
Coming prepared to climb not only helps us better achieve our goals, but it helps our partners. It could help others at the crag. It might prevent the greater community or rescue personnel from needing to use limited resources.
Being prepared can increase our safety and enjoyment. We’re more efficient and more practical. This leads to consistency, which, in turn, leads to increased enjoyment and performace.